Method of stitching fabrics



J. EMORLEY. METHOD OF STITGHING FABRICS.

Patented Apr. 25, 1882.

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JAMES H. MORLEY, OF HOLYOKE, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE MORLEY SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, OF THE STATE OF MAINE.

METHOD OF STITCHING FABRICS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 257,047, dated April 25, 1882.

Application filed April G, 1881. (No model.) Patented in Canada September 20, 1881.

To all whom at may concern:

Be it known that I, JAMES H. MoRLEY,-a citizen of the United States, residing at Holyoke, county of Hampden, and State of Massachusetts, have invented a new and useful Improvement in the Method of Stitching Lapped and Butted Seams and of Stitching Shank- Buttons onto Fabrics, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to a method of sewing in lap-seam work by carrying double-threaded stitches across the edge of the overlapped piece of fabric; of sewing batted-seam stitches, carrying said double-thread stitches across the meeting edges of the fabric; and of sewing on shank-buttons, causing said doublethreaded diagonal or cross stitches to be made through the shank of a button which has been placed in proper position therefor upon the fabric.

My improvement in the art or method of stitching lap and butted seam work and in stitches for sewing on buttons, &c., will hereinafter be fully described, and then specifically designated by the claim;

In making the above-mentioned stitches I employ essentially mechanism substantially like that for which Letters Patent of the United States were granted me January 4th, 1881, No. 236,350.

In the drawings forming part of this specification, Figure 1 is a view on an enlarged scale of said stitches as they appear upon fabrics whose edges are united by a double lap-seam, in which is shown the form of said stitches upon both sides thereof, the cross-stitch upon the under side being shown in dotted lines. Fig. 2 is a similar view of said stitches as they appear upon fabric whose edges are united by a single lap-seam, in which the stitches do not pass over either edge of the fabric. Fig. 3 is a similar view of said stitches as they appear upon fabrics whose edges are united by passing said stitches across the meeting edges thereof and through a stay-piece laid over the seam. Fig. 4 is a similar view of said stitches sewed through the shanks of buttons thereon. Fig. 5 is an enlarged skeleton view of said stitches separate from the fabric.

The stitching viewed from the upper side of the fabric is a double-threaded cross-stitch, and seen from the under side shows two lines of stitches substantially at right angles to the direction of the cross-stitches on the upper side, and of said two lines of stitches one is composed of a line of single thread intermediate between said cross-stitches and the other of a line of double-threaded loops running from cross-stitch to crossstitch and interloopin g one with the other.

In operation the thread, starting at c in the material, is passed through it by the eyed needle, whence it is taken by the hooked needle, which passes up through the fabric at d and draws it down through the material at the same point, doubling the thread in so doing, and the loop so formed by the action of said hooked needle has the succeeding loop passed through it, as shown in Figs. 1, 3, and 5. The line of single thread parallel to the line of said loops is laid as the needle passes from point to point in the material to form the stitches.

The dotted line 2 in Fig. 1 indicates the edge of the underlying piece of material, as does the dotted line 8 in Fig. 2.

This stitch is especially useful in uniting the overlapping edges of fabric, as in Fig. 1, by passing the cross-stitches from quite beyond the edge of the upper piece of material beyond the edge of the underlying piece, and also by passing the stitches through the over and underlying edges of the fabric, as in Fig. 2, but not outside of the edges thereof, as in Fig. 1.

The samples of stitching shownin Figsland 2 illustrate an application of this stitch to sailsewing and the like heavy work, for which it is particularly adapted and useful, and unites such material most strongly.

The work illustrated in Fig. 3 shows a man nor of sewing by this stitch which is particularly valuable on leather'work, and it may be used advantageously on heavy textile fabrics. In said figure a stay-strip, h, is applied over the butted edges of the material on one side thereof, and the parallel lines of stitches are formed upon said stay-strip, as shown, and the cross-stitches upon the opposite face of the inaterial'over the meeting edges of the two pieces of the fabric.

In Fig. 4 is illustrated the position of shankbuttons relative to this stitch when secured thereby to fabric. In this figure is shown a stitch, 5, by the side of each button. This stitch is one of the regular series of stitches,

and is taken near the button to prevent the up through the fabric at 0, then from 0, carrying a double thread across the fabric substantially at right angles to the line of the feed,

passing said double thread down through the fabric at'd, interloopin g said thread, and forming upon the under side of said fabric, under the ends of said cross-stitches, two parallel lines of stitches, one of said parallel lines consisting of a single threadintermediate between said cross-stitches, and the second line of said stitches consisting of double-threaded loops interlooped one with the other, substantially as shown and described.

JAS. H. MORLEY.

Witnesses:

IRA G. TODD, H. A. GHAPIN. 

